Chapter IX Mitchelstown remembered - A Night on the Galtees - The weird horse - Killing, or murder? - The ballad of "Shamus O'Brien" - A letter from Samuel Lover. In a very hot July five and fifty years ago, a walking party left my father's house to visit some places of note in the counties of Limerick, Cork, and Tipperary. Our party consisted of John Walsh, afterwards Master of the Rolls in Ireland; John Jellett the late Provost of Trinity College, Dublin; Gaetano Egedi, an Italian friend of ours; my brother, and myself. The weather being unusually warm, our plan was to start each day late in the afternoon, arriving at our destination about midnight, and visiting next day whatever was of interest in the neighbourhood. Towards the end of our tour we arrived late one night at Mitchelstown, famous for its caves, and now also of sacred political memory. Next morning we set off, immediately after breakfast, for the caves, which are about six miles from the town, near the village of Ballyporeen, celebrated in the old Irish song, "The Wedding of Ballyporeen, in which the wedding feast is thus described - "There was bacon and greens, but the turkey was spoiled; The caves are in the cavernous limestone formation, and not unlike those of Derbyshire. We entered by a sort of ladder, which, after a descent of about 30 feet, leads to a long and narrow sloping passage, ending in a chamber about 80 feet in diameter, and 30 feet high. From this lofty hall a series of passages lead to other chambers of various sizes and heights; in many of them the stalactites from the roof uniting with the stalagmites from the floor form white pillars of glistening brightness; the whole effect of these halls when lighted up is very beautiful. Having spent most of the day in the caves, we started about seven in the afternoon for Tipperary, which we hoped to reach by midnight. To go there by road would have been a walk of some five and twenty or thirty miles, while straight across the Galtee mountains was little more than half the distance; we therefore adopted the latter route. Lest we should lose our way, we secured the services of a guide, a fine young peasant, who said he knew the way across the mountains well. He could speak but little English; this however did not matter much, as we only wanted him to lead us. Off we set on this splendid summer evening, bright and calm. After a while we sat down for a little rest among the heather, high up on Galtee More. It was a glorious sight as we looked back on the great plain below us, with its green pastures and waving cornfields bathed in the light of the setting sun. We could not rest long, and were soon on foot again, and had nearly reached the crest of the range, when suddenly a fog rolled down upon us, so thick that we could not see more than 30 or 40 yards. On we trudged, vainly hoping that the fog would lift; but, far from doing so, it grew darker every hour. We wandered on till we had crossed the summit; but soon after we and our guide had completely lost our way. On reaching the edge of a lake we asked the guide in which direction we should go round it and found, as we had suspected, that he was as hopelessly lost as we were, and saw plainly that he had never known that there was a lake there. We went round by its margin till we came to a small stream flowing from it; we followed its course, knowing that it must lead us to the lower lands. It was night now, and though the fog was as thick as ever, it was not altogether dark, as some little moonlight shone through it. The guide tried to cheer us up by constantly saying, "Nabochlish" ("never mind"), "the houses is near, the houses is near." Once, some 15 or 20 yards from us, a home galloped past; as well as we could see he was of a chestnut colour. We were too anxious to find our way to think much of this; but our guide brightened up immensely. "See the coppel" (the horse), "gentlemen," he said, "I tell'd ye the houses is near." But, alas! near the houses were not, and we had yet before us many a scramble through brakes of gorse, and many a tumble over rocks and tussocks. By this time the moon had gone down, and we were in complete darkness. The fog lifted as suddenly as it had come upon us. I forget which of us suggested that we should all shout together as loudly as we could, and thus, perhaps, attract the notice of some dweller on the slope of the mountain. After several shouts, to our joy, we heard in the distance an answering shout, and soon saw a bright light in the direction from which the welcome sounds had come. Shout answered shout as we hurried down; at times the light went out, but soon blazed up again. At last, on the opposite side of a narrow glen full of rocks and brushwood, we saw the figures of men and women lighted up by a flaming sheaf of straw, which one of the men held up high in his hands. We quickly crossed the glen, and were at once surrounded. "Who are ye?" "What do ye want?" "Are ye peelers?" "What sort of gentlemen are ye at all to be on the mountains this time of night?" To these and many suchlike questions we gave the best answers we could. After a brief conversation, in Irish, with our guide, they led us to a large thatched farm-house; the habitation highest on the hills. They explained to us that they and some of their neighbours had been at the fair at Bansha and stayed out late, and just as they got home had heard our shouts. A huge turf fire was blazing on the hearth, at which we sat drying our nether garments which were thoroughly drenched; great mugs of hot goats' milk were supplied to warm our insides, our host informing us that he had upwards of 80 goats on the mountain. He and the boys (all unmarried men are boys in the south) and girls sat up with us by the cheery fire, talking, joking, and telling stories. After some time my brother happened to say to the man of the house, "I suppose that was your horse that passed us on the mountain?" All were silent, and looked one at another half incredulous, half-frightened. One of them, after a -pause, said, "There is no horse on the mountain. What sort of a horse was it that ye thought ye seen?" "A chestnut horse," said we. "Oh, begorra!" said our friend; "they seen the yalla horse!" Then turning to us," It's a wonder ye all cum down alive and safe; it is few that sees the yalla horse that has luck after." This was one of the superstitions of the dwellers on the Galtees. We afterwards thought that it might have been a red deer that passed us, as at that time it was supposed that there were a few of them, wild ones, still on the mountain. From what our entertainers told us it appears that had not the night been so calm, we should have been in considerable danger of an attack by the enchanted "wurrum," who had his abode in the dark lake we had passed; but fortunately for us it is only on wild and stormy nights that, with fearful roars, he emerges from the lake to waylay benighted wanderers. One of the boys now asked us whether we had heard what had happened that day. As we had not, he told us that "a very responsible man," as he called him, had been shot dead that morning hard by towards Bansha. (He was, I think, Mr. Massey Dawson's steward or forester.) He, did not exactly know, he said, why the man had been shot, but thought he was hard on the people' about the price of timber, and had also dismissed some labourers. Another of the boys said, "Now, why didn't they give b{m a good batin', and not to go kill him entirely?" "Ah, then, I suppose," said the other, "they kem from a distance and didn't like to go home without finishing the job." "But," said the other very seriously, "what will them chaps do on the day of judgment?" "Oich," said his friend, "what does that signify, sure many a boy done a foolish turn." It is not improbable that our friends knew perfectly well who had been engaged in the murder. However that may be, early next morning we bid our entertainers a hearty farewell, and, again refreshed with hot goats' milk, started for the 'town of Tipperary, passing through the glen of Aherlow, then one of the most disturbed places in Ireland, about which the saying amongst the people was, "Wherever the devil is by day he is sure to be in the glen of Aherlow by night." It was the only time my brother saw that lovely valley, which he made the home of Shamus O'Brien in the popular ballad which I give here, as I do not think a correct version of it can elsewhere be found. Shamus O'Brien "Just after the war, in the year ninety-eight, "Now, Shamus, look back on the beautiful moon, "Well, twelve soldiers brought him to Maryboro' jail, 'Well, as soon as a few weeks were over and gone, "Then Shamus's mother, in the crowd standing by, "That was the first minute that O'Brien was shaken, "The morning was bright, and the mist rose on high, The ballad was written in a very few days, in the year 1840, and sent to me day by day by my brother as he wrote it to Dundalk, where I was then staying. I quickly learned it by heart, and now and then recited it. The scraps of paper on which it was written were lost, and years after, when my brother wished for a copy, I had to write it out from memory for him. One other copy I wrote out in the same way and gave to Samuel Lover when he was starting on his tour through the United States, where, as will be seen by the following letter, it was received with much applause:- "Astor House, New York, U.S. America, "My Dear Le Lanu, "In reading over your brother's poem while I crossed the Atlantic, I became more and more impressed with its great beauty and dramatic effect; so much so that I determined to test its effect in public, and have done so here, on my first appearance, with the greatest success. Now I have no doubt there will be great praises of the poem, and people will suppose most likely that the composition is mine, and, as you know (I take it for granted) that I would not wish to wear a borrowed feather, I should be glad to give your brother's name as author, should he not object to have it known; but as his writings are often of so different a tone, I would not speak without permission to do so. It is true that in my programme my name is attached to the other pieces, and no name appended to the recitation; so far you will see I have done all I could to avoid 'appropriating,' the spirit of which I might have caught here with Irish aptitude; but I would like to have the means of telling all whom it may concern the name ot the author to whose head and heart it does so much honour. Pray, my dear Le Fanu, inquire and answer me here by next packet, or as soon as convenient. My success here has been quite triumphant. "Yours very truly, Notwithstanding his disclaimer of authorship, I afterwards, more than once, heard the poem attributed to Lover. He did, indeed, add a few lines, by no means an improvement to it, in which he makes Shamus emigrate to America, where he sets up a public-house, and writes home to his mother to invite her to come out and live with him in his happy home. I suppose he thought that this would suit the taste of the Irish-Americans. Many years after this, when I had recited the poem at the house of my friend, Sir William Stirling Maxwell, he said, "I was afraid poor Shamus would be hanged." "I didn't think so for a moment," said Lord Dufferin. "Why?" said Sir William. "Possibly," said Lord Dufferin, "it may have been because I have heard William Le Fanu recite it once or twice before." There are a few words and phrases in "Shamus O'Brien" which some of my readers may not understand. I give them here with their meaning. "Just after the war." The peasants always call the rebellion of 1798
"the War."
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