CHAPTER XXXVI

The Western Hills, Rathmore and Kilteel

Leaving town, we make our way to Saggart by Terenure and Tallaght, turning to the right and following the telegraph line, about a mile beyond Tallaght, so as to avoid the dusty main road. Almost immediately turning to the left, we enter Fortunestown lane, a sequestered by-road, from which are obtained pleasing views of the Slade of Saggart and the adjoining hills, with occasional glimpses of the country to the northward. On entering Saggart we proceed along the village street, keeping straight ahead, past the old castle, which, with its modern windows and dashed walls, presents the appearance rather of a ruined dwelling house than of an ancient stronghold. A short, sharp descent brings us into the valley of the Slade - the little river that flows through the Slade of Saggart - after which we take the first turn to the right, along a gradually rising road, commanding extensive views over the flat country northward, while underneath the hill will be seen the Saggart Paper Mill, with its great wheel, and the long village of Rathcoole. As we continue our ascent, the hill of Coolmine will be seen on the left, its summit marked by a small square pillar to indicate the division between adjoining properties. About a mile and a quarter further we turn to the left, and immediately afterwards to the right, along a wild mountain road, constantly ascending, from which we obtain views of Blackchurch Hill, surmounted by its ruin, and of the wooded hills of Oughterard and Lyons. Proceeding along this road we may observe on our left the hill called Knockandinny, better knownto the people around as Crockaunadreenagh, really a continuation of Knockananiller.

Our route now lies along a narrow country lane, gradually descending until a group of houses is met, where we turn to the left, up an unfrequented mountain road, which ultimately conducts us by a long ascent over Saggart Hill or Slieve Thoul, with Knockananiller, 1,110 feet high, on the left. The country here becomes wilder in character, the hedges give place to low stone walls or earthen banks topped with furze; the shady nooks are adorned by the graceful fern and clustering violet, while the hedge-banks in spring time are illumined by the pale beauty of the primrose. We at length reach a pine plantation, where the lane becomes narrow and grass-grown, bordered by bracken and furze, and as we continue the ascent, the view extends into the plains of Kildare, over the blue range of hills far away to the westward. As we reach the summit - a truly secluded spot - 1,000 feet high, we unexpectedly come into view of the mountainous country on the Wicklow side, and standing on the stile beside the iron gate we command views in both directions. Just beyond this point we meet roads turning right and left, and taking the lefthand one, which descends very rapidly, we may observe, rising immediately above us on the left, the summit of Saggart Hill. When near the bottom of the hill we turn to the right, at the cross roads, presently reaching the Blessington tram line, where we again turn to the right towards Brittas.

From Brittas we keep along, the tram road for a distance of about 4½ miles, with the mountains Seechon, Seefinn, and Seefingan on our left, while a continuous line of lower elevations interposes on our right between us and the plains of Kildare. We at length come to Cross Chapel, and turning here to the right up a steep road, we take the first turn to the right up a rough laneway leading to the summit of a nameless hill, 1,153 feet high - one of the low range which forms a sort of natural border between the counties of Wicklow and Kildare. From the upper portion of this lane, in clear weather, there is a striking view over Westmeath, Kildare, King's and Queen's Counties, comprising the nearer portions of the Slieve Bloom range, the double-topped Croghan Hill in Westmeath, the Red Hills of Kildare, and the Hill of Allen surmounted by its tower, while with a glass may be distinguished Naas, Newbridge, Kildare, and many other towns and villages out in the plain. On the Wicklow side is a scene of wild mountain grandeur extending over Seechon, Seefinn, Seefingan, Mullaghcleevaun with its precipitous sides, Moanbane, and in the distance the flat summit of Lugnaquillia, frequently enveloped in cloud. A few miles away is Blessington, in the midst of a well-wooded country, and further off, in the upper Liffey valley, is Coronation Plantation, from which, with the aid of a glass, the road may be traced the whole way up to Sally Gap, the Military road being discernible thence as a line across the dark mountain side leading back towards Dublin. Retracing our steps along the lane until the road is again reached, and turning our backs on the mountains of Wicklow, we commence a long descent to Rathmore, a small hamlet, consisting of a church, a glebe house, and a few cottages.

The great rath or dun, from which Rathmore derives its name, stands prominently in view immediately north of the church. The central mound and enclosing circumvallation are still quite distinguishable, although a great part of the rath has been cut away to provide gravel for road repairs in the neighbourhood. About twenty years ago, during the progress of these excavations, a number of human skeletons were found buried within a circle of undressed limestones, and in 1894, after a landslip caused by heavy rain, there was disclosed a kistvaen, or sepulchral chamber, lined, roofed and floored with slabs of green limestone, containing a skeleton lying with the feet to the east. The floor of this chamber was 20 feet below the grass-grown surface of the rath. In the section of the rath laid bare by the excavations, a stratum of black material was observable, which, on examination, proved to be an accumulation of wood ashes, conjectured to be the deposits from culinary fires used by generations of pre-historic inhabitants. At some height above this stratum was found another layer of wood ashes, with which were mingled bones of oxen, sheep, and pigs, and broken horns of deer - the remains apparently of a settlement later than the lower one. Although, probably, not less than two thousand years had elapsed since the members of this primitive community cooked their food and warmed themselves at these fires, the ashes, when discovered, were as fresh and recognisable as though they had been extinguished but the day before.

Coming down to historic times we find that in 1229 the lands of Rathmore were granted to the Barons of Ophaly, and one of the witnesses to the deed of assignment is "Stephen de Segrave," from which family Segrave's Castle doubtless derives its name.

In 1286 Gerald FitzMaurice oge Fitzgerald, 4th Baron of Ophaly, died at Rathmore of wounds received in battle, and was buried at Kildare.

In 1356 the King sent a letter to Maurice Fitzgerald, 4th Earl of Kildare, reproving him for neglecting his manor of Rathmore, and ordering him, under penalty of its forfeiture, forthwith, to repair thither, accompanied by five esquires, twelve hobillers (horsemen), forty bowmen, and a suitable number of foot soldiers, fully armed and accoutred, to take the necessary steps for resisting the incursions of the O'Byrnes and their allies.

In 1538 the Constable of Radirnore Castle, one John Kelway, was slain by the O'Tooles under circumstances which are detailed at length in the next chapter.

On the 17th September, 1580, an encounter took place near Rathmore between a small body of cavalry belonging to the troops commanded by the Earl of Kildare and Sir Henry Harrington, and a body of the Irish, led by a brother of the redoubtable Feagh MacHugh O'Byrne of Glenmalure. The Irish had burnt Rathmore, and were returning early in the morning towards the mountains with a number of cattle taken as spoil, when, the alarm having been given, the troops set out in pursuit, and after a chase of about six or seven miles, overtook the raiders, who thereupon relinquished their prey and prepared to defend themselves. The troopers charged the party, killing several of them, at a ford, not named, but probably on the Liffey above Blessington. The survivors, rallying, made a desperate defence, killing the English officer in charge and the standard-bearer, but were ultimately overborne by the weight and numbers of the troopers, and all but two of them slain. Some fifty altogether fell in this encounter, among them being a son and two brothers of Feagh MacHugh O'Byrne. The Earl of Kildare, in his official report to the Secretary of State, testifies to the valiant manner in which the Irish fought on this occasion.

Of the ancient castle of Rathmore, so long an important outpost and stronghold of the Pale, no vestige now survives, and little information is available even as to the position of its site.

As the rath is now in charge of the Board of Public Works, and the excavations have been stopped, the preservation of this interesting relic may be regarded as assured.

At Rathmore, inquiry should be made for the road to Kilteel, as otherwise a stranger is likely to find his way to the Woolpack road, which would entail a considerable round. A short distance beyond the church is Segrave's Castle, apparently the remains of an old fortified dwelling house, with massive walls and a vaulted lower chamber, consisting evidently of several portions erected at different periods. It exhibits in parts luxuriant growths of ivy, and contains remains of flights of stone steps, cellars, &c. It is at present occupied as a dwelling, portion being used as dispensary for the surrounding district. Old coins, keys, and antique implements have been dug up in the vicinity.

A little over two miles from Rathmore is Kilteel, or Kilheale, where there is a fine old castle almost concealed by a grove of trees, which invest it with a gloomy appearance. According to the authority quoted at end hereof, a commandery or settlement of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem was established here by Maurice Fitzgerald in the 13th century. It is recorded that in 1335 the Prior of Kilmainham appointed one Robert Clifford to be porter to the Commandery, with suitable clothing and half a mark annually for shoes, together with the use of apartments near the castle gate.

In a patent roll of the year 1541 we find an inrolment of an indenture by which "Sir John Rawson, Prior of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem in Ireland, and his co-brethren, in that the preceptory lordship or manor of Kilheale, in Kildare County, is situated in the marches thereof, near the Irish enemies, the O'Tholes, where resistance and defence are required, grant to Thomas Alen and Mary, his wife, the said lordship and all castles, messuages, &c., in Kilheale, &c., for ever for the rent of five pounds."

In 1669 the castle was leased by the Earl of Tyrconnell to Daniel Reading, and in 1703 the property having been forfeited by the Earl, the trustees appointed to administer the forfeited estates assigned it to the Hollow Sword Blade Company, from whom it passed in 1706 to Sir William Fownes. From the Fownes family it passed to the Tighes in 1773, and from them it was purchased in 1838 by the Kennedy family, the present proprietors.

The castle consists of a single tower 46 feet high, on the north side of which is a turret containing the staircase to the upper storeys and the battlements. Adjoining and built on the side of the structure is a large arched gateway leading into a spacious courtyard, the right hand side of which is formed by a line of buildings, out-offices, &c., evidently of modern origin, but all in a more or less ruinous condition. The entrance door of the castle opens into an arched chamber, constructed with great strength and solidity so as to support the great mass of masonry above it. On ascending the winding staircase a small, round spyhole, pierced through granite, will be observed, commanding the passage to the gate. The castle consisted of three storeys and an upper chamber, the latter being arched like the basement, and a few steps from the first floor lead to the chamber over the entrance gateway. Continuing the staircase, we at length reach the battlements, from which may be seen the old projecting stone gargoyles for carrying off the rain water, still in perfect condition. The arched roof is flagged in the centre with large, flat stones, having been probably intended to be patrolled by a sentry. The staircase is lighted by the usual narrow slits, and the holes once occupied by iron bars are still discernible. Above the battlements is the turret, commanding an extended view over the mountains, a matter of great importance in the case of a stronghold situated, as this was, on the very limits of the Pale.

Behind the castle is the ancient churchyard with just a vestige of the old church, and adjoining are some blocks of an old building, said to have been a nunnery.

From Kilteel to Rathcoole, a distance of four miles, there is nothing calling for notice; the last two miles are a continuous descent, and the concluding portion of the journey, from Rathcoole home, lies along the Naas road.

The total circuit described in this article entails a journey of about 36 miles.

In the preparation of this chapter, much information has been obtained from the following contributions to the Journal of the County Kildare Archaeological Society, viz.: - Vol.11. - Article on Rathmore, by the Earl of Mayo. Vol.1. - Article on Kilteel Castle, by the Earl of Mayo. Vol.111. - Article on Rathmore, by Mr. Hans Hendrick Aylmer.