CHAPTER XIII

Cruagh, Killakee and Glendoo Mountains

The three mountains whose names form the title of this chapter would be more correctly described as three elevations in the desert plateau lying between the valleys of Glendoo and Glennasmole, and wholly comprised within the limits of the ancient Manor of Cruagh. These points, although marked as mountain summits on the Ordnance Survey maps, are of so indeterminate a character, and differ so little in altitude from their immediate surroundings as to be almost incapable of identification, except by careful observation with an aneroid and compass. It is, perhaps, owing to this absence of striking features, that the tract in question has never been a favourite one for mountain climbers, and it must be confessed that except in the finest and driest of weather, it is not an attractive one for the excursionist. From the earliest times a sparsely inhabited district, it possesses, with the exception of the Mount Venus cromlech and the ancient church of Cruagh, but few objects of historic or antiquarian interest. The northern confines of this wild region are well marked by a fine belt of wood, extending from the Military road on the west to the summit of the Glendoo valley on the east, and by a mountain road constructed at so great an elevation above the plain as to afford a seemingly illimitable prospect over land and sea.

There are few historic events of interest recorded in connection with this locality, and the earliest mention we find of it is in 1184, when Prince John (son of Henry II.) granted Creevagh or Cruagh with its churches to the See of Dublin, a gift which was successively confirmed by Edward III. in 1337, and by Richard II. during his visit to Dublin in 1395. Nothing further of interest appears until the year 1620, when Peter Talbot demised to Patrick Travers "the towns, villages, and hamlets of Cruaghnaclough and Newtown, in the parish of Cruagh in Harold's Country," with all houses, lands, commons, turbary, and pasturage on the moors, mountains, and bogs of Cruagh and Tibradden. All this neighbourhood was, at that time, known as "the Harolds' Country" from the powerful clan of that name, who, for centuries, dominated the district south of Dublin on the borderland of the Pale, and left their name impressed on the localities known as Harold's Grange and Harold's Cross.

The excursionist who desires to explore this region should proceed by Rathfarnham, Willbrook, Ballyboden, Edmondstown, and Rockbrook. A short distance beyond the last hamlet will be seen on the right, the road, entered by two massive gate pillars, leading through the demesne of Killakee House. This is the old Military road, and is still open to the public.

Immediately beyond the entrance to this road is the ancient churchyard of Cruagh, with its curious watch-tower described in another chapter.

A short descent from here leads to a bridge, beyond which, after an ascent of about three-quarters of a mile, we enter the picturesque woods of Glendoo, presently crossing another bridge over that turbulent little mountain stream, the Owen Dugher, and turning to the right at the far side where the road branches. A long ascent through the over-arching woods conducts us to the mountain road already mentioned, over 1,000 feet above sea level, from which there is so striking a view of the plain and Bay of Dublin. Once the higher part of this road is reached, the ascent of the mountain may be commenced at almost any point by entering the pine wood on the left, afterwards, however, bearing to the right, until the bed of a little stream is seen, to the left of which the highest point is Cruagh summit.

As we ascend through the trackless heather and furze, looking back, our view extends over the top of Mount Pelier to the plains of Meath, Kildare, and Westmeath, and on our left may be observed the bed of the little stream that joins the Owen Dugher at Rockbrook, its course marked by stunted rowan and elder trees, amid rank herbage and thickets of bracken. A slight farther ascent over some marshy ground takes us to the summit marked as Cruagh on the Ordnance map, 1,714 feet high. From here we may observe to the eastward the Two Rock Mountain, with the carn on its summit and the rocks on its southern slope; to the left and farther off, the Three Rock Mountain, and through the gap between the latter and Kilmashogue, Kingstown and its harbour. Beyond the blue waters of the Bay is the familiar form of Howth, with the Poolbeg, the bright sands of the North and South Bulls, and the Clontarf shores intervening. To the north lies the flat Dublin plain, in which numerous familiar objects may be distinguished with the aid of a glass. Nothing distant can be seen southward, as Glendoo mountain shuts off all view in that direction.

As stated, Cruagh Mountain has no distinguishable summit, and it slopes almost continuously to Glendoo Mountain, over a somewhat difficult and broken tract of country interspersed at intervals with patches of marsh. The further climb to the top of Glendoo is amply rewarded by the extensive prospect to the southward, comprising Shanganagh valley, Carrickgollogan, Bray Head and town, Windgate, the Little Sugar Loaf with its bigger colleague peeping out over the side of Prince William's seat, then the valley of the Glencree and Dargle River, rising over which are Douce, Tonduff, and neighbouring elevations, while immediately underneath, to the eastward, is the valley of Glencullen.

It will be noticed that for some reason, the Great Sugar Loaf appears to be considerably higher than the observer, although it is actually 270 feet lower - an interesting illustration of how easily the eye may be deceived. Standing on this summit, 1,929 feet high, the eye ranges over a scene of wild moorland solitude, where the silence is broken only by the whistling of the wind through the long bog-grass and heather, or by the hoarse voice of the grouse as they wing their way across these wind-swept wastes.

Here, on the modern county boundary, we can look down into the ancient district of Fercualann, now Powerscourt, an impregnable fastness of the "Irishry" in the days of the Pale, where prisoners, cattle, and other spoils were taken for safety after the raids upon the plains. Southward, on the slopes of Kippure, may be seen the deep recess in which are hidden Upper and Lower Loughs Bray, as well as the Military road winding up the steep hill over the Upper Lough, and trending away towards Sally Gap.

Glendoo Mountain is called "Garrydow" in Duncan's Map of the County Dublin, 1820.

Having sufficiently observed the view from this point, we next make our way over the coarse mountain grass, in a westerly direction towards the flat, bare tract that forms the summit of Killakee Mountain, the view from which differs little from that visible from Glendoo, except that it is less extensive. Looking westward from this point across the deep valley of Glennasmole, we can see in succession, Seechon, Corrig Mountain, Seefingan, and Seefinn, the two latter intervening between us and the Kilbride rifle range, from which, in calm weather, may frequently be heard the sounds of firing. On the top of Killakee Mountain the turf is carved into the most fantastic shapes by the combined action of rain and wind, and the granite that once covered it has, in the course of ages, become disintegrated until nothing has been left of it but grains of quartz, with occasional garnets, which are, however, of no commercial value on account of their small size. This mountain was formerly known as "White Sands Mountain" on account of the quantity of quartz sand found there.

Descending from this point, we continue our course westward, coming into view of the Rathmines Waterworks reservoirs at the bottom of the Glennasmole valley, and at length, striking the Military road, along which we make Our way homeward by the well-known route to Rathfarnham.

Instead, however, of taking the direct route by Ballyboden and Willbrook, it will be an agreeable change without adding much to the return journey, to turn to the left by Oldcourt road, after passing Mount Pelier, and take the first turn to the right opposite the avenue to Orlagh College, leading by Ballycullen House and Knocklyon to Firhouse. The lands of Knocklyon, originally formed portion of the grant to that famous warrior and territorial proprietor, Walter de Ridelesford, and after numerous changes of proprietorship, came into possession of the Loftus family of Rathfarnham. The Castle of Knocklyon, which is over 500 years old, now consists of a square three-storied edifice, with two towers at opposite corners, incorporated in a modern dwellinghouse, further modernised by the construction of new windows, door and roof. The original entrance was an arched door leading direct into the principal room, at the end of which was an immense fireplace.

From Firhouse the road leads to Butterfield Avenue, conducting the excursionist into the village of Rathfarnham, from which the tram can be taken to town.

The distance to be walked in this excursion, starting from and returning to Rathfarnham, is about 13 miles according to the directions of the routes taken across the mountains. If the return journey is made via Knocklyon and Firhouse, it will add about 1¼ miles to the distance.

Cyclists might arrange to leave their machines at one of the cottages on Cruagh mountain; they will have to walk the greater part of the way there from Edmondstown, but will be able to return home in little over half an hour.